Not Quite National BBQ Tour - Part 9: Tom Jenkin's Bar-B-Q

Sunday night, as the plane was landing in Fort Lauderdale, my seatmate asked me if I was in town for business or fun.  We had a brief conversation about the area and the joys of business travel (he was flying home).  When he suggested that I try to have some fun, I decided to ask about BBQ … and after a few moments of reflection he told me about ‘Tom Jenkins BBQ’.   It would mean a driving back to Ft Lauderdale from Miramar, but definitely worth the trip.  As we de-planed, he turned around to tell me not to try them on until Tuesday since they aren't open on Mondays.

Heads Up!  The Rating Scale Has been Revised – Again!

RATING DEFINITIONS # STAR / 10

0-1  =   Its BBQ … I’ll try just about any place once
2-3  =   HONORABLE MENTION … well executed even if not to my liking
4-7  =   GOOD BBQ … flavorful, distinct, and presented well with good sides
8-9  =   REALLY GOOD BBQ … The Whole Package + That Something Special
10   =    The Undiscovered Country … If I ever really find the best, I’d have to stop looking

Tom Jenkins Bar-B-Q

Despite the name, the restaurant was in fact founded by 2 guys (neither are named Tom) named Harry and Gary.  At first it was just a sauce, then a food trailer, and since 1996 one of the great Mom N Pop BBQ shops in the world -  just north of the Ft. Lauderdale Airport on Highway 1.  I parked next to a huge smoker and right under a sign displaying the hours of operation:  Tuesday – Saturday 11am-8pm, Closed Sunday (For Church), Closed Monday (For Fishin’)

THE PLACE

This is right in Ft. Lauderdale, so retail space is at a premium, and the whole joint parking lot included would have fit inside the Scrubbys I visited last night.  Everything is old dark wood with a big counter and 4 picnic tables crammed inside (along with some benches along the wall).  Its dark, it’s full of wood smoke … it’s wonderful.  By the way if it’s your first visit don’t just walk up to the counter thinking you can order.  That’s for picking up carry-out orders.  The dine-in  line starts to the right of the door and snakes through the tables up to the side of the counter.  One at a time please – and no pushing.


THE FOOD

2 Meat combo with 2 sides and corn bread + a drink and a dessert = under $20

* Brisket (chopped):  When I was ordering, I asked if the brisket was sliced or chopped.  Right about then …. Gary pulled out a hunk of brisket and chopped it with a huge knife.  “You want it chopped”, he said; and he was right.  So good that  I (almost) forgot to put sauce on it.  Think about everything good about brisket (color, texture, flavor, fat content etc. etc.) it was that good.

* Spare Ribs:  Literally the best ribs I've ever had … and yes, that includes Kansas City.  It took just enough effort to pull the meat off the bones and the flavor was amazing.  I was sad to only get 3 huge meaty ribs in my order.

* Baked Beans: Yummy, with brisket cooked in (excellent with a bit of cornbread added).

* Mac N Cheese:  One of the agents in my class this week suggested the mac (and the collard greens).  I wasn't brave enough for the greens, but the mac was fantastic

* Bonus Side Corn Bread:  Thick enough that I wanted some butter – but it worked great with some of the sauce (and the baked beans).

* The Sauce:  They only have one sauce at Tom Jenkins.  It’s a good right-down-the-middle sauce not necessary for the food, but a great add.

*  Sweet Potato Pie:  A few of the folks in line were ordering whole pies to take home and convinced me to try a slice (ok I wasn't that difficult to convince).  Not being very familiar with this sort of pie, I was happily surprised and even more thrilled when I got to the fabulous crust.  It was a great way to put out the gentle fire from the sauce.

THE WRAP-UP

Based on my change to the rating scales above, you've probably already guessed that this visit made me rethink my Kansas City BBQ snobbery.  I have too much love for My KC Favorites (Oklahoma Joes and Jack’s Stack) to rate them lower that what I ate here (in South Florida of all places), but Tom Jenkins is right up there.  I’m happy to award a well-deserved 8.5 Stars and will be stopping back by Friday afternoon on my way to the airport for a second go at this unexpected treasure.